Friday, September 23, 2011

before jil & donna, there was zoran

The French idea that you have to "suffer to be beautiful" is anathema to Zoran - a throwback to the era of corsets, before women exercised to maintain the body and knew what to eat.


''We don't operate on the cocktail circuit. We don't need that constant schmooze factor.''
-Zoran, designer for Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis (who bought his entire first collection), Queen Noor,

Candice Bergen, Lauren Bacall, Isabella Rossellini, Lauren Hutton

http://www.nytimes.com/1999/04/20/style/reviews-fashion-zoran-the-master-of-deluxe-minimalism-still-provokes.html?pagewanted=all&src=pm

what Zoran's anonymous-looking, logo-free clothes do: they silence the discussion about fashion.
installing a shower in his loft to remind private customers he didn't approve of makeup with his clothes.
''I never feel I look as good in other designers' clothes as I do his."
Gloria Vanderbilt says: ''I was wearing, unfaithfully, an Armani suit, and Zoran had with him this beautiful chiffon stole, amber colored. He took it and draped it all over me so that the other outfit was completely covered.''

Zoran refuses to allow his clothes to be marked down, stores have an incentive to sell them at full price.

Zoran's supremely simple concept for his office, which was to allow the space to remain undefined -- "like Home Depot for girls" -- not unlike his clothes, which present hundreds of combinations.

Zoran does not have franchises; he doesn't do sunglasses or scent. He doesn't much like makeup or jewelry.

"You don't have his private phone number, do you? I'm desperate for more pieces. There is never enough."

Zoran makes clothing for women—there are plenty of them—who are discreet and utterly confident and who do not need to wear their money on their sleeves. If you have to ask why a simple quilted silk jacket, no lining, no fastening, costs two grand, you're probably not a Zoranista.

He insists that modern clothes must be wearable throughout the business day, travel well and work for a woman who "can wear anything she wants. She is intelligent and she is deciding."

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